Heading South

After a flight of three hours we arrived in El Calafate on the Argentinian side of the Andes in southern Patagonia, leaving behind the scorching summer sunshine of Buenos Aires. Here, despite being close to the longest day of the year temperatures may not even reach 10 degrees during the day.

We have come to see the Perito Moreno glacier which flows out of the mountains into the 100km long Lake Argentina.  The Glacier is an hour's drive from El Calafate which is also on the lake shore. The countryside next to the lake is divided into huge ranches where vast flocks of sheep graze and condors circle overhead in front of the distant snow-covered mountains. It is an enchanting sight but nothing compared to the first sight of the glacier itself which is truly a natural wonder of the world.

We went by boat to within 300 metres of the sheer ice wall of the south face of the glacier then viewed the whole glacier from above from the walkways within the national park. In the fissures in the face of the Perito Moreno are ice caves which glow deep blue as if one is glimpsing the embers of a blue fire burning inside.

As the weather got brighter the ice glistened and began to crack. Noises like gunshots echoed around the valley followed by thunderous crashes as large pieces of ice sheared off, dropping  into the freezing water below.  It is incredible to witness nature doing its awesome work at close quarters.

The next day we headed a little further north to visit the larger Upsala glacier. This one recedes at a rate of four metres per day and can't be seen close up because of the field of icebergs created by a huge rupture in it a couple of years ago. Having crossed the lake by boat, we were driven above the glacier where there are spectacular views.  We then hiked back 14km with a group to Estancia Cristina, a remote ranch established by a (presumably mad or very brave) British couple in 1914. From there we made the return 90 minute boat trip across the lake.

So, two very enjoyable days in desolate, remote but beautiful Argentinian Patagonia.  Being outside walking in the icy wind is a great way to work up the appetite for a steak or the local speciality of grilled lamb, both of which are served in huge portions. Tomorrow it will be time to cross the border into Chile which we are looking forward to despite having loved this country.  I'm sure we will be back.