Douala - the Armpit of Africa

I'm not sure whether the nickname the "Armpit of Africa" derives from Douala's geographical position (where the arm of west Africa leaves the main body of the continent) or whether it relates to the 100% humidity which makes it feel like one is living in an armpit. Cameroon's largest city, port and economic capital is over-crowded and decaying, but above all full of life.

Cathedral, Douala

I spent three days visiting family and friends in Douala. Its a growing city mainly because of migration from rural areas which has led to new suburbs growing up as the city spreads. It is fascinating to see the different environments in which people live: I stayed with my sister Bisi in up-market Bonapriso where richer locals and ex-pats can sample cosmopolitan restaurants but walking distance away is poor New Bell, home of the rags-to-riches national hero, footballer Samuel Eto'o Fils. My brother Penda lives in industrial Bonaberi across the huge estuary of the river Wouri, where everyone seems to be selling something unless they are in one of the many roadside bars consuming the beer products of Brasseries du Cameroun and the local favourite Guinness, which has a brewery here (one of only five outside the British Isles). The administrative centre Bonanjo contains colonial buildings, banks and offices around the corner from the hotels and smarter shops of Akwa.

Place du Government

Nightlife abounds everywhere - Cameroon is almost as well known for its music and beer consumption as for football - but perhaps the most memorable part is the traffic. My friend Marshall drove me around the city after dark, hooting with laughter and passing comments out of the window at other drivers while expertly navigating between huge potholes. Meanwhile motorbikes pass the cars and the many yellow shared-taxis on both sides in both directions as they evade the huge puddles that can be a foot deep and cars appear at strange angles at major junctions in the absence of traffic lights. However despite the chaos it seems to work and we got across the city and back in surprisingly little time. But this was Sunday evening and the weekday rush hour is another matter...