Granada, 1492

Our arrival in Granada reminded me of a dinner party on 31 December 1999 where our hosts had asked us to vote for the most important year of the Millenium that ended that night. I went for 1492, the year that Columbus stumbled upon the Americas and, coincidentally, the Portuguese became the first Europeans to arrive in Cameroon. It was also in January of that year that the Moors surrendered Granada and the Christian reconquest of Spain was completed.

I chose 1492 because it seemed to me important both as an end and a beginning. Columbus triggered off the sequence of events that led to the creation of the USA, the state that would become the most powerful in the world by the end of the Millennium. But that same year marked the end of the Moorish empire which had been the most powerful and advanced state in 1000 AD. It is a good reminder that in time all things decay and pass on.

In January 1492 the last Moorish ruler Boabdil left his palace the Alhambra in Granada and on leaving the city wept for his loss. His mother chastised him for "weeping like a woman having failed to defend his city like a man". Poor bloke. You know things are going against you when even your Mum gives up on you.

The Alhambra

However the peaceful handover at least allowed the Alhambra to survive, which it has despite a chequered history. Now people come from all over the world to see what the Rough Guide to Spain describes as the greatest site in Europe. The beautiful gardens of the Generalife are based on the Islamic idea of paradise - the greenery and running water being the opposite of what medieval Muslims typically found in their lands.

The Generalife gardens

The Alcazaba is a virtually impregnable fortress built on a rocky outcrop above the main city with commanding views and in between lies the astounding beauty of the Palace of the Nisrids which captures even today the sophistication and opulence of the time. Beautiful patios with running water and pools are surrounded by intricate muslim calligraphy and ornate doors, windows and wall decorations.

Patios in the Nasid Palace

We enjoyed the superb views of the city as the sun went down and in the morning climbed up through the old quarter, the Albaicin, to the gypsy area on the hill at Sacromonte where the views back to the Alhambra on the other side of the river are equally memorable. Unlike many Spanish cities Granada still seems to be thriving and it's prosperity is reflected in the extent of refurbishment going on to the many beautiful properties and the lively bars and cafes.  Perhaps Boabdil need not have wept for the future of his city and maybe his mother should have gone easy on him.

The Albaicin from Alhambra