Like Benidorm, Salou and Torremolinos, the Costa Brava can conjure up images of early spanish package holidays to places like Lloret de Mar that some of my primary school friends went on.
Our experience has been very different as we have found some of the bits that were protected from mass tourism and which the locals kept for themselves. There hasn't been a big tower block hotel or full English breakfast in sight. We spent a night in Cadaques - just over the border and then moved on to meet Conrad, Kathryn and Conrad's mum in their favourite Costa Brava hideaway.
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Kathryn & Conrad |
Both bays are beautiful but Conrad's takes some beating. After first going there thirty years ago he knows the best room in the best hotel and it's really very nice. A beautiful sandy beach slides into the Mediterranean in a small cove with remarkably little development to spoil the view.
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...and the view out to sea |
The weather is getting warmer by the day but there was still a slight chill in the air when the sun went down the night before in Cadaques. We sat with a cocktail watching the men from our bar stand on the quay with their fishing rods while smoking large cigars. Like fisherman the world over they made the universal gesture for "it was this big" to indicate the unfeasible size of the fish they were stalking but had so far failed to catch. And like men the world over they used the possible appearance of such a fish as an excuse to do nothing while the women did all the work in the bar. The fish was never landed so we went elsewhere for our dinner.
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